Pilgrimage: Walking the Way of Faith
by Susan Baggot
My daughter, Mary-kate, and I recently returned from pilgrimage on El Camino de Santiago in Spain. Before we left, I questioned why I would do this to myself; rheumatoid arthritis causes frequent flares of severe pain, inflammation and weakness. A round of concussions has left me with continuing difficulties with crowds, noise and overhead florescent lighting; not a great combination when navigating airports. Originally we planned this trip for 2021, the Holy Year of St. James. Covid pushed it back a year. It seemed the devil did not want this to happen. Yet, go we did. And learned just what Pilgrimage is truly about.
Daily blogs on www.SusanSamsBaggott.com through the 115 km of trail-walking show the spiritual progression as each day passed. In early blogs I talk about the sites we visited, the churches we prayed in, the severity of the terrain. Towards the end, after trials and many miles, spiritual reflection dominates.
I particularly loved all the tiny stone villages, and churches. The people of Galacia overflow with compassion and assistance. Even ancient ruins of Castromair and the Roman foundation remains, now visible in the river at Portomarin, where the cathedral was dismantled and carried stone by stone up the mountain by townspeople and reassembled at it’s current location testified to the locals’ faith and devotion.
But there were obstacles. The narrow, often exceedingly rocky paths between magnificent stacked-stone walls, challenged us. We started walking in 90 degree dust that coated so thickly that clouds burst forth when untying boots. We crossed rivers on rough-cut stone bridges and slid down narrow passages carved out by water flow and mud slides. And we trudged through five days of 50 degrees rain where neither we, nor our clothes, ever dried out despite ponchos that covered bodies and backpacks.
The church bells inspired us. Every hamlet had at least one bell in a tiny, ancient church. In larger areas there were two bells. Each quarter hour a bell would ring. One ring for quarter past the hour, two for half past, three for quarter to and four for the hour. On the hour, this was followed by a deeper toned bell striking once per each number of the hour reached. We never needed a watch! And there was always a reminder to sit and pray.
Many people had inspiring stories of overcoming and persevering through great hazards and trials. A bicyclist pushing his bike up the Pyrenees Mountains noticed his load was suddenly lightened. He looked behind to see a Norwegian man pushing his bike with him. One young woman from Germany walked six weeks. She had blisters, had to buy new boots, lost her luggage in a transfer and was limited to two outfits for weeks, but she still smiled and persevered. We walked a piece with an older woman who hobbled on legs as big around as my waist but she smiled and never stopped. Such an inspiration! Friends suffered bed bugs, swarms of mosquito bites and Mary-kate and I contracted Covid. We thought we had bad colds from walking in the rain for five days. Yet, through it all, every one of us got up every morning, picked up our pack, and climbed the next mountain, crossed the next river, endured with grace and faith.
The entry into Santiago, for Mary-kate and me, was more a collapse and gratitude than joyful exuberance. We were struggling to overcome fevers, body aches and exhaustion. We were not alone. We saw people arrive with walking sticks raised high in exultation for the photo in front of the cathedral then collapse into tears. Bicyclists lay on their backs staring at the sky or sleeping with their bicycles laying in piles on the pavers. Groups entered singing and dancing then sank down to rest and eat.
Spanish medications are strong. A pharmacist fixed us up so that we felt well again. But upon arriving home, we tested positive for Covid. The quarantine gave me time to reflect. The physical walking was over but the pilgrimage continues. The faith and determination we experienced as we woke every morning and walked through every terrain and challenge, is the same we need to do in our everyday life. We face all sorts of trials and obstacles; physical, social, and spiritual. Yet, God also provides inspirational companions, sunshine, encouragement, and walking-stick assistance that keeps us from falling by means of Scripture, worship and prayer. It’s our choice to use those aids given to us and forge forward, or to stay in bed and suffer. Pilgrimage is a Way of Faith, no matter the circumstances. Choose to Walk with Faith.
Susan Sams Baggott, despite a BA in Journalism and an MA in Spirituality, or perhaps because of, is now a fiction writer. It took many adventures and careers to arrive here. She writes about faith and mystery at www.SusanSamsBaggott.com. She is a member of All Saints’ in Woodbridge , VA where, when not hampered by health or away walking long distances, she helps with the food bank garden and monthly food give away.
